Spicy, savoury, and intensely aromatic. Tom Yum Kung is a soup from Thai cuisine that is sure to excite the palate.

Time: 2/5
A quick broth. Takes longer to prep than to cook.

Effort: 3/5
Not a recipe you can walk away from. Dealing with shrimp might also be a bit stressful to some.

Take the boat to flavortown

Thai food is one of my favourite cuisines (case in point: Pad Krapao Moo). Maybe it has to do with one of my aunts being Thai. I got an early introduction to Thai sweet chili sauce during family dinners as a child and learned to love the sweet and spicy flavour combo at an early age.

Tom yum soup is one of those signature dishes that taste like a party on your tongue. (Tom Yum is the soup, while Kung means shrimp in Thai). Spicy without being overpowering because it’s balanced by sweetness, tart from the lime juice but also rich because of the coconut milk. Plenty of umami from fish sauce and shrimp.  And of course, super aromatic from all the herbs.

I learned how to make Tom Yum soup during a trip to Phuket (although that wasn’t my greatest culinary takeaway – that title goes to Tagliatelle Bolognese a la Phuket). I never got to use my new skills after going home, until I passed by a Thai grocer recently and got inspired. I was very satisfied with the results.

I like something spicy to kick me back into gear when I have to work after an all-nighter – one of my favourite breakfasts after a night shift is scrambled eggs drowned in Tabasco, with a very strong coffee. After this success, Tom Yam is going into the wake-me-up breakfast rotation.

It’s also great to cheer you up on a cold dreary evening – this is my SO’s favourite application for Tom Yum. Some say the nutrients in lemongrass and galangal helps fight off colds. I don’t know about that, but what I am sure about is that a nice Tom Yum Kung will open your sinuses right up. 

One thing I learned making Tom Yum myself is that it’s not exactly diet food. I used to think that with it being mostly mushrooms and shrimp, wouldn’t this be a pretty light meal?

Not really, because of the coconut milk that is necessary for a luxurious, silky mouthfeel. Of course, one of the great things about cooking for yourself is that you get to decide how much of each ingredient to add. Besides, it’s still a lot of lean protein and vegetables, so you can do a lot worse. Make your own trade offs.

(Looking for other ways to use shrimp? Try a quick and easy Old Bay Shrimp, or an aromatic and savoury Stir Fry Supreme.)

Dramatis Personae

Pro tip: a lot of the ingredients aren’t meant to be eaten. The shrimp, mushrooms, tomatoes and the broth are food, but the rest is only there for flavour.

Aromatics – these go in first

Kefir lime leaves – Maybe half a dozen leaves for one or two servings

Essential. It’s the most recognisable aroma in Thai cooking – you’ll know it if you smell it. According to the cooking class I attended, I’m supposed to remove the stems of the leaves. Being the model student I am, I completely forgot to do so. The soup still turned out good, so take what you will from my experience.

Galangal – A couple pieces.

Looks like, but is not, ginger. You can try to substitute with plain old ginger, but it wouldn’t taste the same and you will make Thai grandmas sad.

Lemongrass – One stalk per one to two servings.

Give it a rinse, and bash the stalks with a pestle or the back of a knife. It makes a big difference when it comes to releasing its aroma.

Chili peppers – to taste

Can be whichever type you desire and/or have access to. I used one bird’s eye chili for two servings, because it’s what I had on hand.

Seasonings – these go in next

Fish sauce – begin with a teaspoon or two per portion

Umami in a bottle. The heart and soul of Southeast Asian (and Korean) cooking. Like the great Adam Ragusea once said, it smells like feet but tastes like meat. Don’t be intimidated by the pungency, it really mellows out after cooking and adds a lot of savouriness to the final dish that can’t really be replaced.

If it’s the first time you get fish sauce, don’t worry about the rest of the bottle. Keep it around and make some other Thai food, like Pad Krapao Moo. Or Korean food. Or as a substitute for anchovies in classic Caesar dressing.

Thai chili paste – a teaspoon or two per portion

If you must, substitute by adding chilis in whatever form you have (dried, powdered etc) with some shrimp paste and sugar for a similar effect.

Tamarind paste – about a tablespoon, you might like more

A source of acidity, sweetness and fruitiness that is hard to mimic. It shouldn’t be too hard to find at ethnic grocers. You could omit it, but the end result won’t taste very much like Tom Yum.

Coconut milk – a tablespoon or two pax

For incorporating the Thai chili paste for more homogenous distribution, and also for giving the soup a rich, silky, luxurious mouthfeel.

Sugar – to taste

Palm sugar or coconut sugar might give you more of those tropical vibes in a dish like this. Having said that, whatever sugar you have in your pantry will work well enough.

Vegetables – go in before the shrimp

Mushrooms – however much you like

I used oyster mushrooms, which I understand is the most commonly used in Tom Yum. Any sort of mushroom would work well. I’ve used fresh shiitake which worked well, and I imagine straw mushrooms or button mushrooms would also be very nice.

Tomatoes – one or two per serving

It’s a source of acidity and umami, and also contributes to the red colour of the soup.

Shrimp – goes in last

I’ve showed how I prep whole shrimp previously. I don’t know exactly how much I used, but if I had to guess I’d say maybe 150-200g for an entree sized portion. I’d halve that if I am serving it on the side or as an appetiser.

Leaving the shells on make for a better presentation (and the shells also flavour the broth). Pre-peeled shrimp is, of course, more convenient to work with and less of a hassle to eat.

Fresh shrimp tastes better, if you can find them and afford them. The difference is mainly in texture – fresh shrimp has a snappy bite to it, while frozen shrimp sometimes ends up mushy.

Of course, animals are totally optional in a Tom Yum (if you want to adapt the recipe to be strictly vegan, skip the fish sauce as well and use soy sauce instead). You can also substitute with tofu, chicken, pork or any other shellfish. Just adjust the cooking time accordingly.

Finishers – for final adjustments

Lime juice

Fresh if you can get it, but the bottled stuff lasts longer so that’s what I used. I add lime juice at the end to adjust the acidity, with the heat off. Heating lime juice can cook off its bright citrusy aroma.

I don’t cook with limes often enough to justify keeping fresh limes around, it’s hard for me to buy a small quantity of limes, and it’s hard for me to use up any leftovers before they shrivel up because see the first part of this sentence.

Executive summary

A word of caution – do not take this as an authentic recipe. I admit that I was a bad student, and was more concerned with taking pictures than taking notes during the cooking class. As a result, this is a bastardised version reconstructed from my patchy recollection and adapted for my own convenience. But it’s ok to change recipes to suit your needs – as Chef John would say, that’s just you cooking.

1. Wash and prepare aromatics. Prepare shrimp.
2. Briefly fry aromatics in a pot with a bit of oil until fragrant, then cover with water.
3. Bring the pot to a rolling boil for a minute or two, until the water visibly changes colour.
4. Add vegetables. Keep at a boil.
5. Mix Thai chili paste into coconut cream and add to pot. Add tamarind paste, fish sauce and sugar.
6. Add shrimp. Shut the heat off after 1-2 minutes, when the shrimp are done.
7. Taste and adjust seasoning. Add lime juice to taste.

Play by Play

Tom Yum happens quickly, and it pays to be prepared.

I reflexively began by stir frying the aromatics. It supposedly helps with releasing their flavours and aromas, but I was halfway into it when I remembered that this wasn’t a step during the cooking class.

The water changed colour almost as soon as it came to a boil, which means it is time to add the vegetables. By the way, this is the first time I’m using our new wok and pan, and it’s proving a pleasure to cook in.

There’s some time to prepare the coconut cream-chili paste mixture while the vegetables boil. You don’t have to do it in a bowl with a cat’s face on the bottom, but like with most anything cats make it more fun.

The vegetables in the broth should be done before you add the shrimp. You also want to be happy with the spiciness, sweetness and saltiness. Shrimp really suffers from overcooking, so you’re on a timer beginning the moment they go in. Save the lime juice until the last to adjust the acidity, to avoid cooking off its delicate citrusy notes.

Serve hot. Here it is next to some Pad Krapao Moo over rice with a fried egg for a thematically appropriate dinner.

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